Tag Archives: Half Dome NW

INTERVIEW WITH PETER MORTIMER OF SENDER FILMS

By Amanda Beals

Several months ago I wrote 3 posts on rock climbing. I particularly focused on the work of Sender Films as I attended their premiere of First Ascent their Nat Geo production. Pete Mortimer of Sender Films kindly took time out of his busy shooting schedule to chat a bit about his film company and the developing profile of rock climbing as an international sport.

AB: How did Sender Films come into being? (be as specific as you can)

PM: I’ve been making climbing films for more than ten years now. After college, I independently produced a couple climbing films, which were all well receive in the climbing community. After the release of “Return to Sender” in 2005, I was joined by Nick Rosen, a writer living in New York City and friend from Colorado College, who helped write and direct the first official Sender Films release, “First Ascent.” “King Lines” followed, which was a collaboration with Josh Lowell and Big Up Productions that continues to be the best-selling rock climbing DVD of all time. In 2008, Sender Films released “The Sharp End,” and 2009 brought the release of a six-part series co-produced by National Geographic International called “First Ascent: The Series.” The Sender Films family remains a core group of climbers and filmmakers based in Boulder, Colorado, with big plans for the upcoming years.

AB: What is the market like for Climbing films? Documentaries?

PM: It’s likely that the market for rock climbing films will always be a relatively small niche, supported by the loyal fans and practitioners of the sport. But at Sender Films, we want to bring a less esoteric product to viewers that goes beyond the realm of sports-documentary, and tells genuine stories that are exciting and compelling to all audiences. In the past, we’ve distributed the films ourselves and in gear shops, and DVD sales have been the biggest bread-winner for the company.However, we are looking forward to the international television release of “First Ascent: The Series” to more than 140 countries in January, and the DVD box-set release coming this Fall. We have high hopes that this box set will be our biggest release yet and will cross over to more than just rock climbing fans.

AB: DUMB QUESTION: How the hell do you film a person like Honnold free soloing at Half Dome? What are the biggest concerns with any kind of filming?

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PM: Shooting Alex Honnold was one of the most exciting things I’ve ever been a part of. It goes without saying that what Alex does on those big-walls is dangerous, but his casual attitude and fearless approach to danger renders us, the cameramen, shaking in our harnesses, while Alex cruises these difficult climbs with ease. Composure is the name of the game in free-soloing, where the slightest mistake means certain death for the climber, and certain liability for the film-makers, and Honnold holds it together like a Theravada monk. So that helps a lot, as does the exhilaration of just being a part of something so far-out; what Honnold did on Half Dome and Moonlight Buttress will probably never be repeated, so this stuff was a one-take kind of thing. Obviously, our biggest concern when filming is the safety of the athletes and all crew involved, and all of the climbers that we work with make our jobs that much easier by being such professional, impeccable athletes.

AB: Who are the climbers you are most excited about?

PM: At Sender Films, we like to focus on styles of climbing that emphasize the adventure, because a great story naturally follows from the more epic goals and achievements of these styles. Trad-climbing, alpine climbing, and of course free-soloing have inherent conflict and high stakes, and thus lend themselves to more elaborate stories, as the athletes spend years researching their ascent, training, and encountering physical and emotional obstacles all the way to the top.Dean Potter has taken climbing a step further by synthesizing it with BASE jumping, which is some of the most exciting stuff we can hope to capture as filmmakers… but it’s hard to say who will step it up in 2010. We have solid relationships with many of the top athletes in the climbing world, and are keeping busy in the off-season to come up with next year’s objectives. Every year, it is easy to feel like we’ve hit the ceiling of potential in pushing the limits of rock climbing, but somebody always comes along and blows the top off all over again.

AB: Any films on the horizon about female climbers?

PM: We work often with athletes like Steph Davis and Lisa Rands, and have been brainstorming different objectives with them, as well as Lynn Hill. Most of our future projects are still in development right now, but there are a lot of incredible female climbers out there who will be duly represented.

AB: What does the future hold for Sender Films? Sundance Film Festival?

PM: We’re moving in all kinds of directions right now, but we’re feeling pretty good about the future of Sender Films. The Reel Rock Film Tour just had its biggest year yet, and it will be back next year with more of Sender Films’ traditional fare. Fans can also look for us to expand into different genres as we evolve into a more diverse production company and explore interests beyond the world of adventure sports. Sundance is definitely on the horizon – watch out Redford, we’ll be BASE-jumping in for the premier.

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Rock Climbing: A religious practice?

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BY AMANDA BEALS

Chris O’Connel, owner and aficionado of the Boston Rock Gym contacted me a few weeks back. O’Connel is a dedicated and kindly reader of my almost daily epistle and wondered if rock climbing was on my agenda during my year of “elite fitness.” HELL YA! I replied.

As many of you may know, I work in social media consulting. I cut out the PR agency out of a media campaign and take it straight to the web. I create a digital strategy to capture the the trends of the media as it has almost fully jumped ship from newspapers and radio to cloud computing, mobile devices and social networking.

Anyway, I’m on board at the Boston Rock Gym and in turn I get to train and write about my experiences as a novice ( oh so novice) climber who still has more junk in the trunk than she should and a bosom that keeps her from actually getting flush against the wall. I wonder if my Zaftig figure is akin to a bulldog swimming? Are we both destined to drop like a boulder in water? Time will tell.

What I do know is the following:

I humbly bow before the young athletes that do climb, boulder and forge new, breathtaking death defying routes for the immortal to chance their luck.

I say this with out pretense and with complete humility.

I had the pleasure of attending the Reel Rock Film Festival at The Regent in Arlington last Thursday night.

Two words from the Film Festival: Alex Honnold. (PLEASE WATCH VIDEO)

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I will plainly admit: I have no words to describe Honnold as a climber. The 23 year-old, featured in Nat Geo’s new series, First Ascent, becomes the first person to free solo Half Dome’s NW face. And, for those not in the climbing community, this means the kid climbed a sheer, flat rock without ropes. Honnold climbed with pluck, a quiet mind and graceful gait.

The California Geological Survey about Half Dome in 1865 stated: “It is a crest of granite… perfectly inaccessible, being probably the only one of the prominent points about the Yosemite which never has been, and never will be, trodden my human foot.” Well, it got trodden, people by a veritable Spiderman.

As I watched this episode of Honnold’s ascent, I felt dizzy, nauseous and quite honestly not believing my eyes. I sought information. How does a person train for such a climb? What is Honnold’s diet? Does Honnold have water with him? How the hell is this being filmed? The only facts I received that were even tangentially related to Honnold were that he reads Dostoyevsky, he possibly has never been kissed, lives in a van and arguably has the empty mind and quiet soul of the Buddha (sans body fat) seeking enlightenment not under a tree but in his embrace of the rock.

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