NEW WALL IS BUILT, SET, AND OPEN! CHECK THE PICS!

Well, after weeks of insanity, design, re-design, re-re-design, color picking, hold purchasing, construction, noise, long hours, re-re-re-design, flooring discussions, renovations, debates, re-re-re-re-design, and labor….OUR NEW BOULDERING WALL IS DONE AND OPEN. It debuted at our seminal yearly HEART OV ZTEEL event to a blown-minded crowd of enthusiasts and climbers. And for the last few weeks since the comp, the wall has been set with just under 20 boulder problems from V0-to VGnarly and is ready to be climbed! In addition to the sick new wall which boasts a 17 foot lip, and is 28 feet wide, we also made a big investment in an amazing custom flooring system from Futurist Climbing. Many of you may be a little wigged out when you come in and see a huge tall highball wall like this with no crashpads under it. But we assure you, the 14″ thick, seamless custom flooring system from Futurist Climbing is the best landing you could ask for! This flooring had just as much thought put in to it as the wall itself. There is not a flooring system like it in the Northeast! Unlike most commercial gyms with carpet bonded foam and drag mats, this flooring system greatly reduces the possibility of turned ankles on uneven edges of drag mats. We are happy to be able to offer this increased risk management to our die hard bouldering fans, because believe us when we say this wall is tall! Let these pictures by our good friends at ASA PHOTOGRAPHIC speak for themselves:

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HEART OV ZTEEL BOULDERING COMP

Ok people. Here is the deal. If you have been living on Mars for the last three years, you might not know about our yearly Boulder Competition called HEART OV ZTEEL. Well, go check out the HEART OV ZTEEL website and learn all about the madness that is going to ensue on March 26th! Pre-register and get to training! Keep you eyes peeled on the HOZ site for promo videos, updates, and more!

SIZE MATTERS?

by Gavin Heverly

Ok. We aren’t delusional. We know our walls are not the tallest in the industry. Or even in the Boston area for that matter. But what we WILL brag about is our route-setting. Maxim Zolotukhin, our head route-setter is probably the most passionately obsessed route-setter in the country. And I am not kidding. Then there’s Donny “Hot Karl” Martin. Who has been setting here at the gym for what seems like forever. He cares so much about the quality of his routes, and how much the customers like them that it’s almost a problem. Myself, I have been route-setting for something like 8 years. And I basically consider it to be one of the most scientifically challenging art forms in existence. Anyhow….Maxim will be talking more about the BRG’s route-setting philosophies in a later post.

For now…let’s talk about the HUGE volume holds we just got this morning. Ranging in size from 12″ to FOUR FEET across, these things will be *sick*. Don’t believe me? Come see the masterpieces Max and the rest of our pro-setting team whip up with them for yourselves.

HUBBA HUBBA.

Problem of the Week #9

by: Chris Mireault

Here is a simple V3 that has decent flow and a progressively harder finish. Set your feet correctly up top on this one and your good to go. Enjoy.

Come and climb it today at the Boston Rock Gym in Woburn, MA.

Problem of the Week #8

by: Chris Mireault

The “Advent Candle Route,” as some like to call it, has a straight-forward problem with a really nice sidepull/undercling. I find this problem perfect for laps or for a nice little challenge. Difficult for some, not so much for others. Either way it’s a problem worth climbing.

See for yourself! Come climb it today at the Boston Rock Gym in Woburn, MA.

PROBLEM OF THE WEEK #7

By Chris Mireault

Back by popular demand, it’s the problem of the week at the Boston Rock Gym.

Here is a popular V3- that seems to be getting a lot of attention lately. Straight forward movement and many choices for beta. An all around fun problem.

Enjoy.

BOSTON ROCK GYM ANNOUNCES SECOND ANNUAL HEART OF STEEL COMPETITION

By KALEIGH BUSH

Climbing enthusiasts everywhere, mark your calenders: on January 30th, 2010 the Boston Rock Gym and Evolv will host the second annual HEART OF STEEL bouldering competition. Flaunting a $2,400 cash purse in addition to a gorgeous line-up of prizes provided by a flock of industry leading sponsors, the HEART OF STEEL appeal speaks for itself. And, believe it or not, this year’s sequel is guaranteed to upstage last year’s inaugural jaw-dropping throwdown.

“Big cash prizes and good competition mixed with incredible event organization make this one of the most well run and unique climbing competitions going on,” explains one of last year’s HEART OF STEEL finalists Jon Glassberg, “HEART OF STEEL is setting the standard and breaking the mold for competition format and style. Period.” Glassberg’s thrilling performance earned him third place overall in the men’s Open division last year. Glassberg is shifting his focus this year by joining forces with the Boston Rock Gym’s elite team of route setters rather than entering the arena as a competitor.

HEART OF STEEL’s distinction as New England’s premier indoor climbing competition was imminent in its countless hours of preparation the first time around. But within the dawning moments of its preliminary competition, HEART OF STEEL proved itself capable of revolutionizing the face of indoor climbing competitions not only in its district, but nation wide. The triple digit turnout was littered with strong, revered climbers; the routes were as futuristic as the concepts that breathed life into the HEART OF STEEL brainchild; Manowar’s ‘Heart Of Steel’ (the song after which the competition earned its appellation- a reference appreciated by fans of metal music) pumped adrenaline into the iron-clad veins of every participant, climber or otherwise. The tone had been set and a vision had been realized. “I love it when a competition has a style and a theme and becomes something that spectators and non-climbers can latch on to and really associate with,” says Glassberg. And this year, we can only expect a fine-tuned version of something that was nearly perfect to begin with. But overshadowing the many aspects of HEART OF STEEL leading up to its main event is the highly anticipated game show style finals round that really awards this climbing competition its rightful badge of honor.

If for no other reason, you won’t want to miss HEART OF STEEL for its outstanding display of a finals round. The event’s most notable distinction is its groundbreaking strategy for distributing cash prizes to the top female and male athletes of the day. Exponentially increasing denominations of cold hard cash are taped along the course of each finals problem, baiting each competitor to shamelessly duke it out amongst the others in an outrageous episode of sheer plastic-pulling pandemonium. Bathed in spotlight, each competitor is challenged to pull as many bills as possible off of the wall, creating their own personal cash pot. “Instead of being awarded a check for finishing in a top position, you can complete a finals boulder problem and have the cash in your hand as a direct result of climbing well in the moment. A tangible reward that is very motivating to climbers,” Glassberg said.

In addition to the generous cash prizes, there’s a whole slew of killer swag provided by some of the climbing industry’s top sponsors. Just some of the loot up for grabs this year include three crashpads; two Nemo tents; sleeping bags, packs, and softshells from The North Face; Evolv shoes; rope from New England Ropes; Petzl harnesses, and more. Additionally, there will be free coffee and hot chocolate, free food, video games, and sponsor tables to take advantage of during down time.

The HEART OF STEEL competition is quickly becoming a benchmark for innovation in the competitive climbing circuit, and everyone made up of the industrial-strength vital organs to handle it is encouraged to be a part of it. “The Boston Rock Gym knows how to throw a party,” Glassberg assures us.

Gavin Heverly on the mic while Vasya V. puts on a show in men's finals last year

INTERVIEW WITH SO ILL

By Amanda Beals

So as you know I have dipped my toes into the heightened world of rock climbing at the Boston Rock Gym. While I have been traveling a bunch this past month, I have had the opportunity to interview a variety of rock climbing industry illuminati. Gavin, the manager of the Boston Rock Gym, suggested I look into So iLL and attempt to snare an interview with this bombastically forward thinking, yet old school, rock climbing holds designers and manufactures.

I took Gavin’s advice and emailed the CEO Daniel Chancellor and he responded enthusiastically to my media request. Now, for those of you who are not familiar with rock climbing holds let me lay it out easily. When you indoor climb, the holds are the myriad protuberant shapes that allow you to ascend. Without holds, there is no indoor rock climbing.

What is unique about So iLL Holds is the retro, futuristic, all bets off shapes of holds. This is augmented profoundly with the high level workmanship and chemists So iLL works with to create a hold that is dynamic and impenetrable.

AB: So, your site is wild and woolly. Is that the spirit that motivates So iLL?

DC: We have always focused on a *Reality Distorted look and feel for So iLL. We geek out on bringing this ideal into both products and marketing for the brand. Currently, we are designing a new website. Its going to get interesting.

AB:I looked for a history on your company and could not find one. Tell me about So iLL came into being?

DC: So iLL started during my first year of college (April 2002). I was working all night and sleeping through my Entrepreneurship courses during the day. The first few years were rough. We didn’t have high speed internet until 2005 and I ran biz phone calls off pre-paid calling cards. I was 18 and living the dream. Shaping, molding and pouring on the back porch of my college house. The dream started there, and has now become a reality.

AB:I know that the Boston Rock Gym heralds your company as changing the course of history for indoor rock gyms. What are your thoughts on that statement?
DC: Interesting. That is a pretty big statement. I feel as though we have always tried our absolute hardest. We put 125% into Everything we do. Whether crazier shapes, wild marketing images, etc, we have always been trying to push indoor climbing into a new direction. A lot of other companies have followed lately. That is ok. We are happy to enlighten and help.

AB: How do you envision indoor rock gyms evolving or devolving over the next 5 years? And, in which ways will So iLL be a part of that?
DC: Indoor climbing is crazy on the up and up. Tons of new gyms are being built every year. Lots of “mega-gyms” are now popping up all over the country. In Europe, the facilities being built are fantastic. Small and Nice satellite gyms. Concrete floors, giant wall features, urban architecture, etc. I feel as though the U.S market has some interesting things to learn from them.

AB:Has social media enhanced your buisiness?
DC: I believe so. Since launching our Tumblr page (soill.tumblr.com) I feel as though a behind the scenes look at the daily grind has been good for climbers. Its the first place I put new products, ideas and traveling images, all updated from my phone almost daily. These are also posted to my personal Facebook page: Daniel Chancellor. Let’s be Friends.

AB: When you first log on in the a.m. do you read ClimbingNarc or 8A?
DC:Though both nice sites, I have not in a while. Pretty busy swimming through 100 emails every morning… Being in contact personally with our gyms and home wall owners is something we strive for. My cell phone is listed on the website and I sort through and respond to each and every email. Big or small, order or question. We are happy to be reachable.

AB: What makes your products stand out?
DC: We are constantly trying to push things further. Most recently, we have been working on a new Giant Fiberglass Volume. These are very popular in Europe, but are just now starting to hit the U.S. The Growth was shaped by Jason and is currently about to start in production. Its a 4 x 4 ft fiberglass volume with a Patent Pending mounting system so screws won’t tear up the wall. We’re excited to launch this massive feature. Multiple T nuts are included for mounting other holds onto it.

Along with this, we have been working on a few other things we will be launching at the January Outdoor Retailer Show. We have been working with a team of Chemists for about a year on a new product and have filed the Patent info on it as well. We are excited about its launch.

For holds, we are currently shaping a ton. Going back to our “roots” so to speak. We are excited to launch an entire new product category in 2010.

AB: For a newbie reading this blog, who has always dreamed of climbing, but is afraid it is too hard, what say you to them?
DC:Go Get Some. Find a local gym and get involved. Its so very accessible now with the gym community in the U.S. There are plenty of people out there looking to help someone new. — A crew is waiting for you. Auto Belays are calling your name. Holds want to be grabbed. You need to sweat. Start twerkin it with a belay device and become educated. What a better way to spend your time than watching Jersey Shore.

Glue Hands With Silent Feet.

By Chris Mireault

The next time you’re on the climbing wall, try this basic skill building exercise, it’s one of my favorites! It’s called “glue hands with silent feet” and it goes something like this.

First off let me explain “glue hands.” To initiate glue hands, pretend you have glue on your hands, simple enough right? Now every time you grab a climbing hold, try not to move your hands from the original position that you first grabbed the hold until it’s time to reach for another hold. That’s it!
This exercise is geared to make you think twice about how you grab a hold. Rather than just feeling the hold out and hoping for the best, you will have made the perfect placement the first time. Ideally this will train you to use hand holds better the first time around.

The other exercise is called, “silent feet.” Silent feet involves making perfect foot placements on foot holds without making any sound during placement. This act of silently placing your foot requires much more concentration and will require much practice at first. This exercise is also geared at having you, the climber, make your foot placement correctly the first time around.

Once you get the hang of silent feet you should start to move with more fluidity and grace. Also in theory, the better the foot placement and less foot scraping, the longer the rubber on those expensive climbing shoes will last. This is always a plus in my book.

Combine the two exercises together and you get what is called “glue hands with silent feet.” Practice these together as often possible and in time you will find yourself moving on the rock with more precision and confidence in no time. I guarantee it.

Try it the next time you’re in the gym and let us know what you think.

For more awesome exercises, and to learn climbing technique from a pro, check out Boston Rock Gym’s NUSCHOOL technique classes. These classes are guaranteed to get you climbing better faster.

PROBLEM OF THE WEEK #6

By Chris Mireault